Please take the time to read this page and understand both what I do and the pricing for custom work I do to existing barrels. I personally do not "make" barrels.
See the link to Match Grade Machine below.
|Prices and the work I normally do are posted below.
Asking me to repeat what is posted here wastes shop time and may miss important details.
(I do not sit around making quotes. Please get the details about sending work in and the prices for my work below.)
|NOTE regarding muzzle brakes:
Contact me at email@example.com for the muzzle brake schedule.
I have nearly completed the spring batch as of this date, 6-7-2017, and tentatively will schedule another batch in time for fall.
|All custom made barrels are made by Match Grade Machine. Click here.|
I do not "make" barrels. I just customize existing barrels and custom chamber MGM barrels.
Match Grade Machine does excellent chamber work, far superior to typical factory chambers and cuts cylindrical throats in most all chambers. For the more discriminating shooters and for cartridges MGM does not chamber for, I go to greater lengths taking time to dial in bores, and do all throating separately with emphasis on throat alignment with the bore and minimum throat diameter. This is what you pay extra for by having me do the chamber.
|Order custom barrels made however you want directly from Match Grade Machine, phone 435 628 0071. If you have questions about how to have the barrel made, I am glad to advise.
Email me at firstname.lastname@example.org
or, call me at 541 956 6938.
Note that Match Grade Machine does not discount for no chamber.
If you want me to chamber the barrel, just specify "No Chamber", and they will hand it off to me to chamber. Likewise if you want my machined in muzzle brake or 6-screw picatinny or Weaver scope base.
If you want the barrel threaded, I suggest you include threading when you order the MGM barrel.
My chamber work adds $100 to their price in most instances.
Exception is $80 for .357 Maximum and .357 Magnum.
My machined in muzzle brake, $185.
EGW picatinny rail installed 6-screw, $79.
Weaver rail installed 6-screw $65.
Thread barrel and precision crown (no thread protectors, you supply) $100
|NOTE, SPECIAL PRICE: Rechambering .357 Magnum TC and CVA barrels to .357 Maximum $95 post paid back to you.|
Applies to .357 Rem. Maximum only. Does NOT apply to H&R barrels, which require a special set up. H&R barrels are $135 ppd.
|Shipping and payment:|
UPS Ground shipping PER PACKAGE, one flat rate regardless of the quantity of barrels in the shipment:
Barrels we sell, $25, continental US.
There is an additional administrative charge of $30 for handling barrels sent in. To clarify, the total Admin/shipping for barrels sent in is $55 per shipment back to you, regardless of quantity of barrels.
Additional for postal shipment to Alaska and Hawaii per quote.
PLEASE don't just throw a barrel in a box!
I need COMPLETE information WITH the barrel to include:
1) Your complete billing and physical shipping address if different.
2) Your phone number.
3) COMPLETE credit card information including expiration date and security code.
Safest way to send card info is with the barrel.
I am on a cell phone only. Cell phones are not secure.
The safest way to pay by credit card is via Pay Pal to email@example.com.
NEVER SEND CREDIT CARD INFO BY EMAIL!
Most work is billed when work is completed.
4) If paying by check or money order, make payable to Mike Bellm.
5) Your email address for sending you the UPS tracking number.
6) If you are not content with tracking to verify your package got here, enclose a self-addressed stamped envelope. I understand your concerns about safe arrival of your package, but I do not send out any notice that I have received your package.
Pad ends of barrels well and use a box in good condition.... unless you like concrete scars on the barrel or your barrel lost in shipment.
DO NOT REMOVE THE EXTRACTOR OR THE LOCKING BOLTS!
I need them in the barrel!
DO remove scope base and sights if possible.
They have to come off in most instances.
I am a one man shop, batch work, do not quote delivery times, do not make refunds on demand, do not entertain repetitive status requests, and do not entertain delivery demands. Sending work in implies you agree to allow me to work your job through on my time table. If you do not agree or have to have work back by a certain time, then do not send barrels to me.
I stand behind my work, but I do not stand behind what you do with my work. If you cannot get accuracy using your methods, and you are one who will not follow the regimen we outline on this site, you are on your own. You are welcome to do things your way, but not at my expense.
If you have to have your barrel back for a fall hunt by a certain time, August is not the time to send it in.
Minimum cancellation and return charge $55 handling and shipping.
|Contact Kurt Bellm at (970) 433 9525 for FFL related services he offers.|
This includes trigger jobs and fitting issues.
|See the Chamber Cast Library page for the importance of the throat.|
The throat is THE most important aspect of the barrel, but the least understood. See this page!
|In Short, Accuracy by Design, not by luck!|
How I Go About The Work And What Sets It Apart.
..... in short, I cut metal, not "corners".
I craft chambers around ammo, factory ammo or to whatever dimensions size dies size cases to.
I DO NOT USE SAAMI SPEC. REAMERS!
WAY too many SAAMI spec reamers are pure garbage, and only a dumb rube would use them. This includes the idiots in charge at the factories. These jackasses have cost shooters millions and millions of dollars with their ridiculous chamber throat designs, sloppy throat alignment, and I might add hap hazard barrel crowns.
Excuse such socially unacceptable language, but if it applies to you, so be it. If the truth is not good enough, then what is? There is simply no defense for what I observe in factory barrels every day.
I work for the guy pulling the trigger, not the factories.
Within the range of sizes of factory cases and the dimensions size dies produce, I craft chambers to fit ammo, including the bullet. I do not use oversize, ill-conceived, SAAMI type reamers that are typically too large in one or more important dimensions or very poorly designed, especially in the throat area.
I dial in the bore concentric with the axis of the lathe, more correctly I am dialing in off the groove area, at the point where the throat will be cut. All bores have some degree of curvature to them. None are perfectly straight. Welding the lug on the barrel also induces warpage and distortion of the bore. Dialing in off the bore at the point where the throat will be cut gives the most precise throating possible, FAR more precise than can ever be accomplished consistently with piloted reamers, even with tightly fitted pilot bushings at the risk of damage to the tops of the rifling.
All you have to do is examine factory production chambers, and you can see that the pilot of the reamer can NOT assure chamber alignment.... PERIOD!
I cut NO chambers where the throat is cut at the same time as the body of the chamber. ALL throating is done separately, aligned with the bore and of minimum diameter, meaning just large enough to allow a bullet to enter it. Typical SAAMI throat diameters are from .001” to .005” or more larger than standard bullet/groove diameter, which is not only absurd but is basically the same condition as a barrel that is to some degree already "shot out".
Shooting enlarges the throat diameter. As the throat is enlarged, accuracy deteriorates. So when the throat diameter is cut larger to start with, you have a barrel that is to some degree "shot out" before you even fire the first round through it! Trying to "make" a barrel with a large factory throat shoot is often an impossibility. On the other hand, a barrel with the throat well aligned and of minimum diameter will shoot well with little effort or "load development" expense required. This assumes of course that the gun as a whole is assembled right and correct headspace maintained.
Where possible, the initial "roughing" of the chamber is lathe bored with a boring bar, concentric with the bore. All rim counterbores are lathe bored, not cut with a reamer. Referenced off the bore, this assures the web area of the chamber is concentric with the bore and the rim counterbore is truely centered and square to the bore.
Any fool can buy a reamer and whack out a chamber, but that is not how I go about it! If you want it quicker and cheaper, there are plenty of shops who will oblige you.
|A word to discriminating shooters about custom barrels......|
Shooters get hung up on prominent makers of high dollar barrel blanks like Hart, Krieger, Pac-Nor, Bartlein, Shilen, etc. They all make top quality barrel blanks.
However, the majority of shooters are oblivious to the role the throat plays in accuracy, both in regards to throat alignment and throat diameter. Reloaders get hung up on overall cartridge length and bullet seating depth relative to the rifling but ignore throat diameter and geometry entirely.
Frankly, during the time frame TC made their own barrel blanks in house, prior to TC's fire in 1997, TC's barrels were some of the roughest, most crooked, and poorest quality blanks put out by any manufacturer. Yet for most of my career rechambering thousands of these barrels to correct chamber and throat misalignment, nearly all of these barrels will shoot extremely well when throated properly and given a cleanly cut crown, concentric and squarely cut with the bore. In short, making treasures out of trash has become an art form.
(Post 1997 barrel blanks used by TC are generally VERY good!..... with very few exceptions. Early 6-groove Contender barrels are also generally excellent.)
Conversely, do a sloppy job of chambering the very BEST benchrest grade barrel with an oversize throat diameter and/or not aligned with the bore, and it probably won't shoot as well as a cheap, crooked, rough barrel that is properly throated.
Word to the wise: Give more thought to the throat and less thought to whose name is on the end of the barrel blank used.
And in regard to "breaking in a barrel", those who shoot and scrub shoot and scrub have no clue about the damage being done to the throat.... and to a lesser degree, the crown. So another word to the wise:
Do more soaking and less stroking.
And instead of stroking, use a Bore Snake.
Bore guides? I have yet to see one on the market that actually keeps the rod off the throat area.
Generally a tight brass brush will tell you the areas in a barrel that are fouled.
After the first shot, brush a bore until the brush passes through with fairly even resistance. A few shots with a follow up brushing and patching dry should be sufficient. When the brush passes through with even resistance, you should be "good to go". How often you clean after that should be based on how the barrel groups over a number of shots.
|Be sure to read this page regarding chambers and what a throat is.|
See this page to understand first off what a throat really is, what it is supposed to do, examples of good throats, and in contrast what you get in SAAMI factory chambers. You will then begin to better understand why some barrels are inherently accurate while you simply are wasting time & money trying to "work up a load" to "make" a barrel shoot accurately if it is not throated right.
Throats are the least understood, most ignored, and most taken for granted aspect of barrels in both the production world AND the world of custom gunsmithing.
The object is to build everything around a straight line with everything square and concentric. There is no way relying on the pilot to keep things lined up and a reamer wallowing around in a floating reamer holder will keep the chamber in line with the bore, yet letting the reamer wallow around is "common wisdom" elsewhere in the trade. I'm sorry, it is an impossibilty, born out by the runout found in most chambers cut this way, especially factory chambers typically cut in about 2 minutes or less.
Dialing in the bore at the point where the throat will be cut, and then cutting the throat separately with no interference from the torque involved cutting the chamber body lets the throat reamer follow the bore for best alignment.
It may seem highly counter intuitive, but in my own experiments with throat reamers with pilot bushings, I get more precise alignment with NO pilot bushing installed. All of my throat reamers either have undersize pilots or NO pilot at all! Throat reamers with NO pilot give consistently the best throat alignment of all!
Think about it.
If the throat reamer pretty well equals the groove diameter of the barrel, and the grooves represent the greater surface area, the reamer follows the path of least resistance and only cuts away the riflings, which is all that a throat is supposed to be. A throat in theory is supposed to only be the removal of the riflings so that a bullet can project outside of the case neck.
But what you get in the majority of factory throats is an abomination and an insult to the firearms trade. Compound this with SAAMI dictating to the industry how it cuts chambers, and then the custom trades following SAAMI standards when they buy reamers, and you have an ongoing mess of frustration among shooters scrambling working up loads to try to make a barrel shoot.
Throat a barrel right, and it begs to shoot!
Soap box mode off.
Custom chambering and rechambering TC factory made barrels, Match Grade Machine barrels, and a few H&R barrels.
Most popular and recommended chambers include:
.22 Win. Rimfire Mag. from .22 LR
.223 Rem. from .22 Hornet, .222 Rem.
.223 Rem. Imp. from .22 Hornet, .222 Rem.
.222 Rem. Mag. from .22 Hornet, .222 Rem., or .223 Rem.
.222 Rem. Mag. Imp. from .22 Hornet, .222 Rem., or .223 Rem.
.225 Win. & .225 Win. Imp. (CH-4D FL custom die set $85).......
........ from any of the above
6mm Rem. Ackley Improved. from. .243 Win.
6mmx.284 Win. from .243 Win.
7x57 Ackley Imp. from 7mm-08
.280 Ackley Imp. from 7mm-08
.300 Whisp-R Improved (Improved, rimmed version of .300 Whisper)
.30/30 Ackley Improved
7.62x54R Russian from .308 Win. NEW ITEM, solution to ammo shortages.
.30/06 Imp. from .308 Win.
.30x.338 Win. Mag. from .308 Win. or .30/06
.300 Win. Mag. from .308 Win. or .30/06
.338/06 Imp. from .338 Federal
.357 Rem. Max., THE VERY MOST POPULAR CHAMBERING OF ALL!
.44x.356 Win. Mag. from .44 Mag.
.444 Marlin from .44 Mag.
.460 S&W from .454 Casull
|Short Mags, Super Short Mags, Ultra Mags, .378 Weatherby, and other similar high intensity factory loaded rounds larger in diameter than the H&H .512" body size of the .300 Win. Mag., for example, are a NO GO! This includes .26 Nosler that so many are asking about.
DON'T EVEN BOTHER TO ASK. THE ANSWER IS A RATHER BLUNT, NO!
Every innovation that makes it to the market has to be stretched to the limit, and there are always those that don't get the concept of limits. We have gone through this for years with the Contender, and now it is the Encore with one person after another almost daily wanting it chambered for the new large diameter, high pressure rounds. I won't even dignify the question any more with a personal, kind, considerate explanation.
1) In the case of the TC break open guns in general, they are not as strong and rigid as comparably sized bolt actions or other fixed barrel guns.
2) The perfectly acceptable factory loaded rounds in the Encore like .300 Win. Mag., 7mm Rem. Mag, and similar rounds with roughly a .512" chamber diameter are at the very upper limit for the Encore. Handloading will over work the Encore frame if pushed as hard as shooters can routinely get away with in good strong, rigid lockup bolt actions.
The H&H head size Weatherby rounds have a higher SAAMI pressure limit, and I decline to chamber any of the break open barrels for them.
3) As in gas laws and hydraulics in other applications, if the pressure is kept equal, as you increase the cylinder/piston diameter you increase the force that pressure applies. The chamber is the cylinder. The cartridge case is the piston. The bigger the piston, the more force is exerted.
4) To offset this extra force from larger body diameter factory ammo, the pressure has to be reduced. It can be done by long throating the barrel, ala, long Weatherby type freebore, OR, handload and download to a lower pressure, then:
a) you lose accuracy, or
b) ballistics fall back to the same level as rounds that are acceptable.
5) Unless there is a functional reason to do the larger diameter chambers AND no high pressure factory ammo is available DON'T ASK!
In other words, before you ask, look at the case diameter back at the head of the case and the pressure level, then use your head.
All the super short mags, short mags, ultra mags, etc. belong in a stronger platform.
|Machined-In Muzzle Brakes $185
(Add $10 for cutting to a shorter length)
Brakes are done in batches.
Email firstname.lastname@example.org to get in the next batch, summer 2017.
|Muzzle Brakes Page for details and examples.|
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I do thread barrels and precision recrown, $100, but do not supply or install muzzle brakes or thread protectors. I leave the add-ons to you.
|Prices & General Info:
Base Price, most chambers $100
.357 Rem. Maximum, special price on chambering AND return shipping. Chamber and unchambered barrel, $80, $95 post paid back to you.
Barrels must have removable front sight or add $40 for special set up for doing barrels with the soldered on front sight, for example, or any other projections from the barrel that prevent aligning the barrel inside the lathe spindle...... such as the forend stud on H&R barrels.
22 LR to .22 Mag: $65
Mill extractor slot in rimfire barrels deeper when converting rimfires to centerfire: $25 in addition to price of rechamber work.
Most other rechambers $100 for common, routine chambers and ones I can cut with a combination of reamers. If you have something exotic in mind, ask. I can probably do it.
Machine in Bellm Muzzle Brake: $185, including precision recrown as part of the brake work. (DO include front sight for brake work so I can clear it IF a front sight will be used.)
Precision rethroating with barrel dialed in on center, minimum diameter throat with long leade angle aligned with the bore $45. Add $5 if you want the end of the barrel faced off to give clearance for shimming the firing pin bushing forward to adjust headspace.
Throating is particularly important with .45/70 and .30/30 factory barrels chambered with NO throat at all! Why the industry stopped throating these barrels defies all logic.
Precision throating is part of my rechambering process at no extra charge. The $45 charge is for rethroating existing chambers.
Extending the throat and seating bullets out farther is highly recommended for all types of bullets but is especially beneficial with solid shank bullets like the Barnes X and other solid copper types of bullets. The single shots are not restricted to a maximum overall cartridge length as in magazine rifles and permit seating bullets out much farther so more of the shank of the bullet is supported as the riflings are pressed into it when fired.
I STRONGLY RECOMMEND EXTENDING THE THROAT IN .300 WIN. MAG. BARRELS! Factory .300 Win. Mag throats are rough, oversize in diameter, and quite short since the round was designed to fit in "standard length", ie, .30/06 length magazines. After I throat the barrel you can really see the difference just looking into the chamber! HUGE difference!
...... and it is a difference that shows up on paper!
Most factory .375 H&H throats are an abomination. Rethroat the .375, and it will outshoot most varmint rifles!
.444 Marlin is another with virtually no throat. Throat the .444 and see amazing accuracy from it!
Likewise, .223 Rem. throats are also quite short, only .060" long. Extending the throat to that used for 5.56 NATO improves accuracy for .223 Rem. ammo and permits shooting 5.56 NATO mil-spec ammo without creating excess pressures.
I do NOT rethroat forcing cone chambers (unless doing a full rechamber that cuts out at least half of the forcing cone).
Nearly all rimmed revolver type chambers after about 1990 have the long forcing cone chamber which is already WAY too long.
More specifically, I do not extend throats in post-1990 .357 Mag, all .357 Maximum, .454 Casull, .460 S&W, and .500 S&W factory barrels.
Exceptions are .32 H&R Mag & .327 Federal which normally should be rethroated.
See this page for tons of info on .357 Rem. Max. Click here.
.357 Rem. Max. is one of my strongest fetishes, and for some mighty good reasons! The cartridge simply makes good sense and easily gives you the best choice for deer hunting under the various state regulations limiting what cartridges you can use for deer especially. It actually out performs many of the old standby "deer cartridges" easily to 200 yards and beyond with 250 to 300 yards highly realistic.
|Cut case rim counterbore in the end of barrel already chambered for a rimless round. When there is the option to use a rimmed case in the break open guns, you really should do so for best results and easier case removal..... $45|
Permits firing rimmed cases in otherwise rimless chambers, such as shooting .307 Win. in .308 Win chambers, or making 7mm-08 cases from .307 Win or .444 Marlin brass.
Other examples are 6mm Rem. Ackley Improved, and 7x57 Ackley Improved made from necked down .444 Marlin Remington brass, which forms quite easily. (Hornady .444 Marlin brass will NOT neck down.)
(7x57 Ackley Improved is an excellent way to spike up a 7mm-08 to near 280 Rem. ballistics and/or to correct factory chamber throat misalignment.)
With extractor spring installed, rimmed and rimless can be fired interchangeably, or remove extractor spring for shooting only rimmed cases.
Highly recommended for .35 Rem. barrels: Make cases from .30/40 Krag brass for a rimmed .35 Remington. Still shoots rimless .35 Rem. ammo. Ask for details about the simple case forming required.
|NOTES ON .444 MARLIN BRASS:|
It is not known at this time when Remington will run more .444 Marlin brass, but Norma and RWS 6.5x57R and 7mmx57R brass can be nicely substituted for .444 Marlin and eliminates necking down for 6mm, 6.5, and 7mm Ackley Improved chambers.
Of course the Norma and RWS rimmed brass can be necked up for .30x.444 Marlin Imp, aka .309 JDJ which is an excellent alternative to .30/06 in the Encore where the cartridge is best suited.
At this writing I have not necked this brass up, but it should neck up ok for .358 JDJ and .375 JDJ.
The Hornady .444 Marlin brass necks down ok if you anneal it first. Factory anneal at the neck does not appear to be adequate for reworking the case mouth.
|A high percentage of barrels leave here shorter than when they arrived!
And for good reason.
1) Most cartridges gain very little velocity past about 24" while some actually lose velocity in 28" barrels for example.
2) Shorter barrels tend to be more accurate, and
3) They simply handle better.
Precision recrowning, cutting cartridge barrels to shorter lengths:
|This bucket of end cuts by the saw is just one of many. If you need a short, small diameter barrel for a project of your own, I will sort through them and sell end cuts for $3 per inch plus USP shipping.|
Precision 11 degree target crown, centered with the bore. $55
Cut barrel to shorter length down to 20" & precision recrown, centered with the bore, $65
Less than 20" requires a more extensive set up, $75.
(I radius the barrel exterior at the end so there is not the usual sharp corner that tends to put excess wear on gun cases at the muzzle end.)
|All barrel crowning and muzzle brake work is done with the bore dialed in to no more than .001" total indicator reading, meaning, the bore is running to within 1/2 thousandths of true axis of the bore.|
On the other hand, a good percentage of factory barrels must be squared before they can be dialed in this close..... meaning, many factory crowns are so badly out of square/off centered that the lathe tailstock center cannot "see" the center of the bore.
Most factory crowns are badly burred and jagged.
My crown is both centered/square to the bore (cut at an 11 degree angle), and the sharp edges smoothed up leaving a less delicate edge to be damaged by cleaning rods and/or other potential damage at the crown.
|Shortening muzzle loader barrels:
Cut and precison crown or cut to length and precision recut muzzle recess and shorten ramrod $135.
Disassembling & reassembling the ramrod hardware entails extra time that often requires modifying the forend pillars due to the frail, short screws that are used.
|Click here to see how I go about precision recrowning|
Take a few minutes to see this page and the degree of precision to which I do crown work. The page linked to is for barrels under 20". I work to the same standards without drilling and tapping for the pvc pipe sleeve on barrels 20" and longer on a smaller lathe. Barrels cut to less than 20" will come back drilled and tapped for a front sight. Barrels 20" and longer will not be drilled and tapped for front sight.
I go to great lengths to insure both the squareness/concentricity of the crown, burr free, and not marring the finish on the barrel. Bores are dialed in to within .0005" of true axis of the bore. Crowns are single point cut. Ie, I do not use piloted crowning tools.
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|28 inch centerfire barrels are often simply a bad idea, click here to see why.|
When TC first came out with 28" Pro Hunter barrels, I said it was a dumb idea based on my years of barrel work. Click on the link above to see the greatly improved accuracy results from experiments cutting these barrels back to shorter lengths.
If you are satisfied with the accuracy from your 28" Pro Hunter barrels, don't fix them. But if accuracy is mediocre to poor and you have done all the other remedial steps to Encore/Pro Hunter accuracy with no real success, have me lop the length back to about 20 to 24" with 23" appearing to be the ideal length.
Folks have the notion that longer is faster and gives more range capability.
But in reality, except for muzzle loaders and belted magnums, most cartridges gain very little velocity past about 24".
In fact, with smaller capacity cases, once the pressure drops to a certain point down the barrel and friction overcomes pressure, the result is LESS velocity! You are swinging that ungainly long barrel, threading it through brush, getting less accuracy and less velocity........ for what????
Barrel length versus velocity tests we have performed clearly show there is a point past which there is no increase in velocity. In one such test with .357 Remington Maximum, the same 24" barrel cut back to 20" produced MORE velocity at 20" than it did at 24"!
You buy the long barrel for longer distance shots, but then can't accurately place the shot and only plow a deeper furrow in Mother Earth when you miss. Stop and think about it.
Most game is shot at much less than 300 yards, often in close cover where quick handling of the gun is really needed. Shorter is better.
Frankly, long barrels for most hunting situations are simply dumb.
20" to 23" to me handle "just right."
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|Sight and scope base work to get rid of the "springboard/diving board" hanging over the tapered part of the barrel.|
|Contender & G2 barrels:
Weaver base converted to 6-screw attachment with drilling and tapping, installed ONLY on UNtapered Contender/G2 barrels, $49.
On TAPERED barrels a 5th screw can be installed behind where the taper begins, and the 6th screw at the front tip of the base same as on the Encore barrels pictured below with the tip of the base anchored/stabilized, $59 total including Weaver base I supply, or $79 for same installation using picatinny rail
|Encore/Pro Hunter barrels|
|Rock solid scope base mounting. From the left, the first small hole is a screw through the base just touching the barrel. First slotted screw is drilled and tapped INTO the barrel, so the front screw stops downward movement, the slotted screw adjacent to it stops upward movement. Next screw is behind the taper. The two pairs of screws to the right are the original factory 4 screws. This is the $59 mounting of the Weaver base.
Note: Front screw locations may vary according to the barrel contour and bore size.
I have always despised scope bases cantilevered over the tapered part of the barrel with no support. During recoil and especially with muzzle brakes that depress the muzzle, such as my designs, there is a tremendous flexing of the base that puts a lot of strain on the rear ring and your valuable scope.
I recommend supporting/anchoring/stabilizing the front tip of the base to minimize this strain as well as any accuracy problems related to the scope not returning to the same exact location from shot to shot, one source of vertical stringing of shots.
If you place one finger against the barrel and tip of the base, then apply pressure downward on the base, you can readily feel it move up and down!
Imagine what happens under the forces of recoil! There is a tremendous amount of leverage against the rear ring, thus I also recommend using 3 or 4 scope rings to make the entire base, ring, and scope assembly more rigid, especially on braked barrels.
Anchor & stabilize the front tip of the base and use more rings for rock solid scope mounting!
6 screws plus one set screw touching the barrel as in the top view above, $65 total including the Weaver base I supply or
$79 for EGW picatinny rail, black only.
See the picture caption for description.
Side view. Gap/overhang is stabilized by the two front screws.
|Picatinny 3/4 in. longer scope bases and more latitude installing rings. Click here|
The approximately 3/4" longer picatinny bases are great if you need to move the scope farther forward for more eye relief, and of course they give you much more latitude in where you place the rings on the scope. These have been extremely popular.
They are available for both Encore and Contender barrels and with or without elevation compensation milled into the base. Up to 20 minutes of elevation correction is available.
Picatinny scope base rail installed with 6 screws, front tip anchored, $79.
|Other scope base and front sight drilling & tapping options.|
Drill & tap ONLY for Weaver/TSOB 6-screw scope base attachment on UNTAPERED barrels ONLY. This permits you to install 6-screw TSOB or Bellm/Weaver bases yourself. Applies to UNTAPERED barrels only, either untapered custom Encore barrels or untapered Contender/current G2 barrels.
Special fixturing lets me do this for only $25.
This pattern has the front pair of holes the same distance apart as the original 4 holes and is the same pattern used by SSK, Match Grade Machine, and others. Ie, holes in a pair .312" apart, long spacing between pairs .836". Visualize the rear pair "leap frogged" forward the same distance.
Modify base to 6 screw attachment , drill & tap barrel, and install various scope bases on tapered barrels, $49 plus price of base or provide your own base.
Drill & tap for front sight only, various hole spacing options, $25
Cut forend dovetails to replace the standard 8x40 screws in Encore barrels with common, larger 10x32 screws. Dovetail locks are used with bedding bars and are also a good fix for stripped forend screw holes. Includes dovetail locks. $65
Add second forend dovetail and dovetail lock to first vintage Contender carbine barrels and 10" "bull" barrels with only 1 dovetail lock, $49.
Drill and tap Encore rifle barrels for handgun forend, $35.
Please send your STRIPPED size die body (for bottle neck cartridges only) along with the barrel so I can check your die against fired cases from the chamber I cut. This does two things. It heads off size relationship problems and also permits cutting a chamber more closely matched to your size die. I usually start small then open the chamber if needed to create enough size difference, thus giving a very nice match up of chamber to size die.
Mill in T’BOSS, “The Bellm Oh Sh_ _ Saver” for better reliability and ease of removing cases from the chamber. This is particularly recommended for belted mag. chambers. See the website for pics and description, $50 for single cut style, $100 for the triple cut style.
|Information about the The Bellm Oh Sh-- Saver, TBOSS|
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CH-4D dies, $85
Redding dies, P.O.R. Prices vary.
Redding tends to be best suited for rechambered factory barrels where the largish factory chamber is the same diameter as the new chambering, such as rechambering 7mm-08 to .280 Ackley Improved.
Lee dies in some custom chamberings $55
Dies are checked against the chamber I cut for the best match up practical and shortened as needed to permit bumping shoulders back. Many dies are too deep inside and must be shortened for use with break open guns such as the TCs that flex when fired and result in cases longer in the body than the at-rest headspace related dimensions.
Ask about die availability.
I do keep an inventory of the folowing:
.225 Win Improved
6.5x.257 Roberts Improved, aka .260 AAR
.270 Win., Ackley Improved (good rechamber from 6.8 SPC)
.300 Whisp-R Imp.
.280 Rem. Imp.
.35 Whelen Imp.
.35 Whelen Imp.
|Contact Kurt for FFL related issues such as sending complete guns or frames for trigger jobs. 970 433 9525|
|A testimonial to rechambering from factory 7mm-08 to .280 Improved:|
Went to the range Saturday with a box of 140gr Federal/speer hot cor's and Remington 140gr corelok's. I had to re-sight the scope so I shot five rounds of the core lok's at 50yds and had four of the shots touching each other, with the fifth ending up about 3/8" away from the others. I adjusted the scope and shot five of the Federals with the same basic results. I started to grin for a change and couldn't wait till the range went cold so I could move out to 100yrds. After shooting five more of each box at 100yds, I knew I made the right decision to have you fix it. I went ahead and shot the rest of the boxes and it never faltered even after the barrel was hot. You couldn't wipe the smile off my face for the rest of the day. I could never shoot better than 2" groups at 50yrds with the 7mm-08 chamber no matter what the brand or grain I shot out of it. I was beginning to doubt my shooting abilities and the short barrel concept. All I can say is Thank you..Thank You..Thank You.. Now I just need to form up some more brass.